Bavaria – Germany

This is the Germany of the postcards. Set in a valley surrounded by glorious mountains, Garmisch looks so perfect, it is as if you have stepped into a Technicolor film set. The streets are flanked by timber framed houses decked with hanging baskets, and although many of the front gardens have been turned into vegetable plots, the regimented lines of onions and beans only add to the sense of order – as do the piles of chopped wood stacked neatly against the walls.

And that sense of the magical fairytale continues when you look up past the pretty domed church steeples to see a crystalline view of snowy mountains.

One reason to choose Bavaria, which shares a border with Austria, is to explore the homeland of characters who range from barking to the seriously unhinged.

Leading the field by some stretch is 19th century king, Ludwig II, who, even in his lifetime, had ‘Mad’ added to his title. Of course, Ludwig’s compulsion to build huge mock Gothic castles wouldn’t get him placed in a straitjacket these days. A call from the planning officer, perhaps. But not a straitjacket. You can’t call someone insane just because they want to indulge in a taste for outrageous upholstery and liberal application of gold leaf.

Neuschwanstein

Nonetheless, there is no doubt that Ludwig was eccentric. You only have to pay a visit to Schloss Linderhof, his whimsical palace tucked away in a forest, to realise that.

Linderhof itself is, even in August, fairly free from crowds. This dreamy palace was Ludwig’s version of Versailles (in itself a slightly mad idea, as it has only six main rooms). It is exquisite. A riot of gilt carving with crystal chandeliers drip from every ceiling – an extraordinary sight.

But in Ludwig’s lifetime, very few of his subjects saw it. A dedicated recluse, the King would take his meals alone in his dining room on a table that could be lowered to the ground floor kitchens, where it was laid with dinner, and raised again. That way, Ludwig dined without being disturbed, even by servants.

And then there’s the Venus Grotto. Obsessed by the operas of Richard Wagner, Ludwig was inspired by the composer’s Tannhauser to recreate a cave carved into the hillside – with waterfalls and a gilt shell boat, on which he would sit alone in his dream world.

And Neuschwanstein is simply bizarre. Set on a rugged hill, this neo-Gothic oddity towers over the landscape. It’s one of the most visited sites in Germany – so prepare to queue for tickets.

Rather than face a 40-minute walk up the steep trail to the castle, we opt for a horse-drawn carriage, which rumbles steadily up the slope.

In many ways, our ascent is the best part. Once inside the castle, the decor – something akin to the Natural History Museum crossed with a Byzantine chapel – is frankly oppressive. Even for a Wagner aficionado (such as myself) there are one too many murals of scenes from Lohengrin.

But the views across the valley are more than worth it.

Bavaria is dotted with things to see – the Benedictine monastery at Fussen for example, is one of the prime examples of German Baroque; the small town of Mittenwald with its frescoed house facades is another draw.