Tag Archives: Eduard Riedel

Stephen Fry and Neuschwanstein

Does knowing too much about an artist affect your ability to appreciate the art? How about an actor who spouts off on politics, or a filmmaker who engages in bad behavior?

This subject gets narrowed to one artist — a big one — in the engaging documentary “Wagner & Me.” Our host here is the English comedian-actor-author Stephen Fry, who gabs in his witty way throughout this program.

Fry admits that his love affair with the music and drama of Richard Wagner began in childhood, and he has remained a besotted fan of the composer to this day. As an adult, Fry has had to arm-wrestle his unabashed love of Wagner’s art with the realities of Wagner’s personality as a human being.

The notable stumbling blocks include Wagner’s stated anti-Semitism and the way his soaring music was used by Hitler and the Nazis as a wellspring for their nationalistic ideologies. The movie weaves from Fry’s recounting of the greatness of Wagner’s genius to passages where he explores the “yes, but…” side of the equation.

This means Fry gets to travel to places associated with Wagner’s life: his home in Switzerland, the crazy Neuschwanstein Castle in Bavaria (built by Wagner’s patron Ludwig II), and finally the shrine of Bayreuth, the town where a special theater was built for Wagner before he would unleash his “Ring of the Nibelungen” cycle upon the world.

New Swan Stone Castle

New Swan Stone Castle – Neuschwanstein

Fry brings all the fanboy enthusiasm he can muster, which is a lot, whether he’s plucking out notes on Wagner’s own piano (as an expert explains the complexity of a particular chord from “Tristan and Isolde”) or opening the door to walk into the theater in Bayreuth for the first time, a moment Fry likens to a religious rite.


Since this is the closest most of us will come to stepping in these places, we get to share the experience. Speaking of which, if the movie inspires you to travel to Bayreuth, be advised the wait is currently seven years for tickets.

Fry gazes at his hand after he shakes hands with Wagner’s great-granddaughter, who continues to help run the Bayreuth festival. That’s when you know he’s taken his fandom too far, and it makes you wonder whether he’s missing the idea that his own unrestrained love of Wagner might be connected to the same kind of delirium that would inspire Hitler to read a justification of German racial superiority in Wagner’s stories and music.

A sober note is sounded when Fry interviews a survivor of the concentration camps, whose ability to play the cello saved her as a child. She’s a little more skeptical about those heroic tales and the gigantic music.

And her skepticism is just the right note for this interesting project: “Wagner & Me” is a fan’s notes smudged with regret.

Neuschwanstein Germany

King Ludwig II’s Neuschwanstein Castle (neuschwanstein.de) is perhaps best known as the inspiration for Disney’s Cinderella’s Castle, but the destination is a popular attraction in its own right, welcoming 1.3 million visitors annually. Although Ludwig’s actions and policies were largely dictated by Prussian authorities, he felt he deserved a storybook palace befitting a monarch, and he decimated Bavaria’s economy to finance his vanity project. Bavarian officials immediately halted construction after Ludwig’s death, then opened Neuschwanstein as a tourist attraction to try to recoup some of the money spent on its construction.

Ludwig ascended to Bavaria’s throne in 1864, the year he turned 18, but after Prussia conquered Bavaria in 1866, Ludwig’s kingship became a strictly token office carrying no substantial authority. Building Neuschwanstein allowed Ludwig to exercise what little power he retained, and he used all the resources at his disposal for the castle’s construction until authorities arrested him in June 1886, declaring Ludwig mentally unfit to act as monarch. Ludwig’s corpse turned up in a lake two days later.

Castle Neuschwanstein Germany

Castle Neuschwanstein Germany

Ludwig drew inspiration for Neuschwanstein from Hohenschwangau Castle, his childhood home. The name Ludwig chose for his castle was New Hohenschwangau, and he selected a site upon the Jugend, a mountain ridge overlooking the Pollat Gorge, for its construction. Bavarian authorities renamed the castle Neuschwanstein after Ludwig’s death. Ludwig hoped to have the project completed within three years, but its technical complexity and the difficulty of working on the precipice slowed construction down considerably. Builders laid the first foundation stone in 1869 and finished the castle’s Gateway Building,


Ludwig’s home within the construction site, in 1873. The final completed portions of Neuschwanstein, its Bower and Square Tower, weren’t finished until 1892. Some of Ludwig’s more outlandish architectural ideas that failed to reach fruition included the Moorish Hall, a reception chamber that was to have an ornate fountain as its centerpiece, and the Knight’s Bath, which was to feature bathing pools allowing Ludwig to emulate the cleansing rituals Crusaders would perform before seeking the Holy Grail.

Neuschwanstein castle Bavaria Germany

Neuschwanstein castle Bavaria Germany

Ludwig’s architectural vision of Neuschwanstein was an idealized version of a Medieval castle, one more suited to a fairy tale than one that authentically replicated the actual castles of the era. Ludwig was a huge fan of opera composer Richard Wagner and adorned Neuschwanstein with murals, paintings and other artwork inspired by the German legends that were included in Wagner’s operas. Ludwig also equipped his castle with technology that was cutting-edge in the 19th century. Neuschwanstein had hot and cold running water, flush toilets, central air heating and even a pair of telephones.

Neuschwanstein is open daily throughout the year, though it reduces its hours of operation between October and March. It’s best to buy tickets online or order them by phone, as buying them directly from its Bavarian ticket office requires enduring a long, slow-moving line. You can hike up to the castle on your own, take a shuttle bus from Hotel Lisl or board a horse-drawn carriage in front of Hotel Muller. Neuschwanstein offers free admission to children under 18 accompanied by a paying adult, and guides give 30-minute castle tours that take guests through 15 of Neuschwanstein’s chambers. After the tour, you can view a 20-minute video of Ludwig’s life and times, set to a soundtrack of Wagner’s music.